Every day we see more and more brands using the label “non-comedogenic” on their products, beauty bloggers and estheticians use the term to frequently to describe ingredients and give advice. But, what does this really mean, and more importantly, how reliable is it?
The comedogenicity of ingredients is a topic really close to heart for long-time acne-sufferers. It’s because of problems like breaking out after using skincare and makeup products, that today we have scientists doing research and figuring out how to help us give meaning to the wast majority of ingredients in the skincare world.
A comedogenic index scale has been developed and extensively shared and re-shared over the internet. It became a sort of a benchmark for people to determine if a product is right for them.
Unfortunately, the matter is much, much more complicated than this, and even with a scale, we still can’t swear by or swear off skincare products or even ingredients. This doesn’t mean comedogenicity is not important.
Not to confuse you any further, let’s start with the basics and try to give you a full overview of the role of the “non-comedogenic” label in skincare.
On its surface, our skin has tiny holes, or small openings of hair follicles that release oil and sweat. On certain areas of the skin where the pores are more densely distributed you can see them as tiny little dots. They play a vital role in the optimal functioning of the skin, which is why it’s important that they stay open.
“Comedo”, or “comedones” in the plural form, is the fancy term that’s used to describe a blocked pore, which can’t function properly.
Comedones are the mildest form of acne that develops when a pore is clogged. We can divide comedones into three categories:
Now with that out of the way, let’s move on to “non-comedogenic” products and their popularity in the skincare world today.
“Non-comedogenic” is a fancy label that simply refers to the fact that the product is not likely to cause comedones (or pore blockages). This likelihood is determined by the concentration and combination of ingredients used in the product.
When companies say that their product is non-comedogenic, they simply mean their product doesn’t contain any ingredients known to be comedogenic.
But, does this mean it will protect against acne and prevent breakouts?
No. It simply means that we’re ALMOST SURE it won’t contribute to more acne. Pretty disappointing right? But, it’s absolutely of vital importance, especially if you’ve been having trouble finding a product that won’t make you flare-up.
Today, a new term is emerging: “Non-Acnegenic” Products.
Acne is a condition that can be triggered by many factors, and not clogging the pores is simply not enough to indicate that the product is safe for acne-prone skin. Comedogenicity is the most important factor, but non-acnegenic products are also free from oils, fragrances, or harsh ingredients that irritate your skin. Anything that can make the product more suitable for acne-prone skin. Having in mind that this “comedogenicity” thing is extremely hard to be determined for simple ingredients, let alone complicated product formulations this topic is really complex
So, how is it done? How do we know that an ingredient is non-comedogenic, or the product is not likely to clog pores?
When it comes to ingredients, we can turn to scientific research and findings that examine the composition of the ingredient. When it comes to products, we can rely on the comedogenicity tests the companies are conducting, like the Rabbit Ear Test and the Human Skin Test, both of which we’ll cover in the paragraph below.
Let’s see what we know so far.
Simply put, fatty acids are the building blocks of the fat in our bodies and in the food we eat. The body breaks down fat from food to fatty acids, so it’s able to absorb it in the blood. I know, we’re used to be alarmed by the word fat when we hear it, but the truth is our body needs fat for energy and cell growth.
Essential fatty acids are the fundamental building blocks of healthy cell membranes in your skin. You can obtain fatty acids internally or topically to help the skin produce the natural oil barrier, important for keeping the skin hydrated, plumper, and younger-looking.
Everything looks good, so where’s the problem?
The problem is that fatty acids are making up the oil or sebum (which is also really important) on our skin.
Sebum is an oily substance that makes up the natural oils on the skin, and that protects and keeps the skin hydrated. Sebum is made up of triglycerides (fatty acid chains), free fatty acids, wax esters, squalene, cholesterol esters, and cholesterol.
Studies over the years have investigated the comedogenic activity of sebum, the skin’s natural oil, and free fatty acids. In 1974, a study published in the Archives Of Dermatology examined the relationship between acne vulgaris and free fatty acids. Results have shown that free fatty acids are comedogenic when applied in massive amounts to the skin’s surface.
However, authors note that there’s also evidence showing reduced fatty acid levels in acne conditions. This implies that not all fatty acids have the same effect on the skin. The contradictory results still give scientists headaches and make the relationship between sebum, fatty acids, oil and other moisturizing ingredients even more complex.
However, to keep things simple, we can sum up that today we know certain fatty acids can be irritating and cause comedogenic reactions, in certain amounts and for certain skin types. Groundbreaking, huh?
Some studies have shown that acne patients have a deficit in linoleic acid. This has lead to the development of many theories that argue that ingredients high in linoleic acid and low in oleic acid are more beneficial and less comedogenic than ingredients high in oleic and low in linoleic acids.
While we’re on the subject of the ratio of certain fatty acids, we have to talk about the comedogenic potential of oils, which are the essential ingredients in moisturizing products.
Most oils are composed of molecules known as triglycerides, which are esters composed of three fatty acid units linked to glycerol. Depending on the concentration and composition of triglycerides, the oils have different properties and comedogenic potential.
Many studies over the years, like the one from 1984 published in The Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, have made an attempt to rate the comedogenicity of the most frequently used skincare products, oils, and other ingredients.
Since then, The American Journal of American Academy of Dermatology has published a list of ratings for various oils and waxes. The so-called comedogenic index scale has been shared extensively over the internet.
0 – Not likely to clog pores
1 – Low risk of clogging pores
2 – Moderately low (may clog pores for some but be fine for most)
3 – Moderate risk of clogging pores (most depended on the skin type)
4 – Fairly high risk of clogging pores (fine for some, but clogging the pores for most people)
5 – High risk of clogging pores
Name |
Comedogenic rating |
Skin Type |
Composition |
Abyssinian Seed Oil |
0 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Erucic Acid and Moderate in Oleic Acid |
Acai Berry Oil |
2 |
Dry, Mature, Irritated |
High in Oleic Acid and Moderate in Linoleic Acid |
Almond Oil, Sweet |
2 |
Dry, Sensitive, Acne-prone |
High in Oleic Acid |
Andiroba Seed Oil |
2 |
Dry, Acne-Prone |
High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Linoleic Acid |
Apricot Kernel Oil |
2 |
Combination, Dry |
High in Oleic Acid |
0 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Oleic Acid, Moderate In Linoleic Acid |
|
3 |
Dry, Acne-Prone |
High in Oleic Acid |
|
Babassu Oil |
1-2 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Lauric, Myristic and Oleic Acid |
Baobob Seed Oil |
2 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Oleic Acid, Moderate Linoleic |
Black Currant Seed Oil |
0-1 |
Dry, Sensitive |
High in Linoleic Acid+GLA and ALA |
Blackberry Seed Oil |
0-1 |
Oily |
High in Linoleic, Moderate Linolenic Acid |
Black Cumin Seed Oil |
2 |
Combination |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate Oleic |
Black Raspberry Seed Oil |
1-2 |
Dry, Combination, Acne-Prone |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate Linolenic |
Blueberry Seed Oil |
0-1 |
Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Acne-Prone |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate Linolenic & Oleic |
Borage Oil |
2 |
Combination, Oily, Sensitive |
High in Linoleic Acid and GLA |
Brazil Nut Oil |
2 |
Dry, Mature |
High in Oleic Acid, Moderate Linoleic |
Broccoli Seed Oil |
1 |
Dry, Best for Night/Hair |
High in Erucic Acid and Oleic Acid |
Buriti Oil |
2 |
Dry, Mature |
High in Oleic Acid |
Camellia Seed Oil |
1 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Oleic Acid |
Carrot Seed Oil |
3-4 |
Dry, Mature |
High in Oleic Acid |
1 |
Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Acne-Prone |
High in Ricinoleic Acid |
|
Cherry Kernel Oil |
2 |
Most Skin Types, especially Dry/Irritated |
High in Oleic and Linoleic Acid |
Chia Seed Oil |
3 |
Best for Body Use |
High in Linolenic |
Cloudberry Seed Oil |
1 |
Oily, Acne-Prone |
High in Linoleic and Linolenic Acid |
Cocoa Butter |
4 |
Ideal for Body/Eye Area, not for Oily/Acne-Prone |
High in Oleic and Stearic Acid |
Coconut Butter |
4 |
Very Dry, Best for Body Use |
High in Oleic, Stearic and Palmitic Acid |
4 |
Very Dry, Best for Body Use |
High in Lauric Acid |
|
Coconut Oil, Fractionated |
2-3 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Caprylic and Capric Acid |
Cottonseed Oil |
3 |
Best for Hair or Body |
High in Linoleic Acid |
Cranberry Seed Oil |
2 |
Dry, Acne-Prone |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic and Linolenic Acid |
Cucumber Seed Oil |
`1 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Linoleic Acid |
Date Seed Oil |
3 |
Dry |
High in Oleic Acid |
Elderberry Seed Oil |
1-2 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Linoelic and Linolenic Acid |
1 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Palmitic Acid |
|
Evening Primrose Oil |
2-3 |
Oily, Acne-Prone, Combination |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in GLA |
Flax Seed Oil (Linseed) |
4 |
Very Dry, Best for Body Use |
High in Alpha-Linolenic Acid |
Guava Seed Oil |
1-2 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Linoleic Acid |
Goji Berry Seed Oil |
0-1 |
Oily |
High in Linoleic Acid |
Grapeseed Oil |
1 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Linoleic Acid |
Hazelnut Oil |
1 |
Most Skin Types, especially Sensitive, Acne-Prone |
High in Oleic Acid |
0 |
Most Skin Types, including Oily/Acne-Prone |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Linolenic Acid |
|
2 |
Most Skin Types, including Oily/Acne-Prone |
High in Eicosenoic Acid |
|
Karanja Oil |
2 |
Dry, Hair Use |
High in Oleic Acid |
Kiwi Seed Oil |
1 |
Dry, Flaky, Hair Use |
High in Linolenic Acid |
Kukui Nut Oil |
2 |
Dry, Flaky, Hair Use |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic and Linolenic Acid |
Lanolin Oil |
2 |
Very Dry |
NA |
Macadamia Nut Oil 2-3 |
2-3 |
Dry |
High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Palmitoleic Acid |
Mango Butter |
2 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Stearic Acid |
Mango Seed Oil |
2 |
Most Skin Types, particularly Dry |
High in Oleic and Stearic Acid |
Marula Oil |
3-4 |
Very Dry, Sensitive |
High in Oleic Acid |
Meadowfoam Seed Oil |
1 |
Oily, Acne-Prone, Sensitive |
High in Eicosenoic Acid |
Milk Thistle Seed Oil |
1 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Linoleic Acid |
0 |
Most Skin Types |
NA |
|
Mink Oil |
3 |
Dry |
High in Oleic Acid |
Moringa Oil |
3-4 |
Dry, Combination |
High in Oleic Acid |
Mowrah Butter |
NA |
Most Skin Types, especially Dry/Damaged |
High in Oleic and Palmitic Acid |
1-2 |
Dry, Acne-Prone |
High in Oleic Acid |
|
2 |
Dry, Acne-Prone |
High in Oleic Acid |
|
Papaya Seed Oil |
2-3 |
Dry, Acne-Prone, Sensitive |
High in Oleic Acid |
Palm Oil |
4 |
Very Dry, Best for Body Use |
High in Lauric Acid |
Palm Oil, Red |
4 |
Very Dry, Best for Body Use |
High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Palmitic Acid |
Passionfruit (Maracuja)Seed Oil |
1-2 |
Oily, Irritated, Acne-Prone |
High in Linoleic Acid |
Peach Kernel Oil |
2 |
Dry, Sensitive |
High in Oleic Acid |
Peanut Oil |
2 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Oleic and Palmitic Acid |
Pecan Oil |
2 |
Dry, Combination |
High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Linoleic Acid |
Perilla Oil |
1-2 |
Most Skin Types, especially Dry |
High in ALA |
Pistachio Oil |
NA |
Most Skin Types, especially Dry/Damaged |
High in Oleic and Palmitic Acid |
Plum Kernel Oil |
1-2 |
Most Skin Types, especially Mature |
High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Linoleic Acid |
Pomegranate Seed Oil |
1 |
Most Skin Types, especially Mature |
High in Punicic Acid |
Prickly Pear Seed Oil |
1-2 |
Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Combination |
High in Linoleic Acid |
Pumpkin Seed Oil |
2 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid |
Red Raspberry Seed Oil |
0-1 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Linolenic Acid |
Rice Bran Oil |
2 |
Most Skin Types, especially Mature/ Combination |
High in Oleic and Linoleic Acid |
1 |
Oily, Acne-Prone |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Linolenic Acid |
|
Safflower Seed Oil |
0 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Linoleic Acid |
Sal Seed Butter |
NA |
Dry |
High in Stearic and Oleic Acid |
Sea Buckthorn Oil |
1 |
Most Skin Types, especially Mature/Dry |
High in Palmitic, Palmitoleic and Oleic Acid |
Sesame Seed Oil |
3 |
Dry, Irritated |
High in Linoleic and Oleic Acid |
0-2 |
Normal, Dry |
High in Oleic and Stearic Acid |
|
Shea Oil |
0-2 |
Very Dry |
High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Stearic Acid |
Soybean Oil |
4-5 |
Very Dry, Best for Body Use |
High in Linoleic Acid |
0-1 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Omega-2 |
|
Strawberry Seed Oil |
1 |
Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Acne-Prone |
High in Linoleic and Linolenic Acid |
Sunflower Seed Oil |
0-2 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Linoleic Acid |
Tallow |
2 |
Dry |
High in Oleic Acid |
Tamanu Oil |
2 |
Most Skin Types, especially Scarred/Sensitive |
High in Oleic and Linoleic Acid |
Tomato Seed Oil |
0-2 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid |
Walnut Seed Oil |
1-2 |
Most Skin Types |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid |
Watermelon Seed Oil |
0-1 |
Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Acne-Prone/Sensitive |
High in Linoleic Acid |
Wheat Germ Oil |
5 |
Very Dry/Damaged, Spot Treatment |
High in Linolenic Acid |
Source: The American Journal of American Academy of Dermatology database and case reports.
Well, it really depends on what are your expectations. The scale is developed using knowledge from scientific research and testing on animals and human subjects. This means that the values truly represent the chances of an ingredient to clog the pores in the general population.
But, how exactly is the ingredient going to work on your skin? No one can give you any guarantees. After all, clogged pores are not the only factor that contributes to the development of acne.
The scale is designed to give you a better understanding of how one ingredient is expected to work. If you consider the scale as a flexible guide on what to avoid, what to try next, or why your skincare products are not working, you’ll probably find it helpful.
But, if you expect to learn what ingredient or product will give you the best results, then you might end up disappointed.
Scientists are working hard on developing better ways to predict the bioactivity of ingredients. Who knows, maybe in the near future we’ll have better measurements and ways to find the most fitting formula for our skin ailments.
Okay, up until now we were talking about non-comedogenic ingredients. But, what about the whole product?
How do we know which skincare products are non-comedogenic? Is it a matter of simple multiplication of the comedogenic ratings of the ingredients in the formula?
No, nothing is that simple. When products get labeled as non-comedogenic sometimes that means that the manufacturer didn’t use any ingredients known to be comedogenic in the formula. But, usually that means that the product was tested on rabbit's ears, or on human skin, and the results showed it’s unlikely to cause comedones.
Comedogenic ingredients don’t necessarily create comedogenic products. If things could be more confusing, the product might contain coconut or olive oil, for example, and still be recommended for acne-prone skin. How is that possible?
It all comes down to the concentration and combination of the ingredients in the formula.
When it comes to skincare products, there’s always the possibility of combining the ingredients in such a way that the comedogenic ingredients won’t be able to manifest its comedogenic potential on the skin.
What do we really mean by this?
Well, let’s go with the most widely used - coconut oil. It’s everywhere. If you’re using pure coconut oil then you’re dealing with a comedogenic rating of 4, which means it’s very likely that the oil is going to clog your pores. But, when it’s used in a moisturizer at only a 1-2% concentration, mixed with other beneficial ingredients, the outcome changes. The oil is diluted and it’s very likely that it won’t be strong enough to actually produce such an influence on the skin as to block the pores.
When it comes to comedogenicity there’s also the “X factor” - like an individual’s genetic predisposition, specific intolerance and allergies that also influence the skin’s reaction to a certain product.
The comedogenic rating of the ingredient or product determines the likelihood of comedones breaking out, but at the end, whether your skin would really breakout from using that product or ingredient is also determined by that individual “X factor”.
In other words, we’re all different, and we might not fit the comedogenic scale as it’s intended.
So, our advice is to use it as a flexible guide rather than a rigid set of rules, experiment, do patch tests before applying new products, and you’ll be on your way to finding the best product for your skin.
We went over the studies and scientific reviews that look into the composition of one ingredient to determine its comedogenic rating. But, what about products formulated of many ingredients, more or less comedogenic, as well as other substances?
In this case, we mostly rely on the tests conducted by the companies themselves or third parties. There’s no standardized or regulated testing method by any governmental organization, so results can vary greatly from ingredient to ingredient and even from brand to brand.
If you’re interested to learn more about makeup products and what specific ingredients to avoid, you should check out our two articles on the subject: “Does makeup cause acne?” and “Makeup ingredients to avoid”.
The two most famous and frequently used methods for testing products are:
Originating from the 1970s the rabbit ear test has long been the standard for testing new products before releasing them commercially. Because a rabbit's ears are extremely sensitive, ingredients are swabbed into the inside part of the ear, and the results are assessed after two weeks.
Although similar and much more sensitive, the rabbit's ear is not the same as human skin, which brings into question the reliability of the test. Plus, there’s always the unethical aspect of the procedure, due to animal cruelty.
The human skin test is usually performed on the backs of human volunteers. After 4-8 weeks their skin is analyzed so the testing team can reach a conclusion on the efficacy of the product.
The problem is that the skin on our back is thicker and less reactive than the skin on our face, which can produce inconsistencies with the results and real-life applications. Plus, studies on human volunteers are usually really small and there’s always the concern that most skin types are not well represented.
If you were looking for an easy answer to this massive and overwhelming subject, we’re sorry to disappoint you. We know it can be a lot to take in, but oversimplifying something so complex can lead to the wrong conclusion about the nature of the natural ingredients and products that we’re using on our skin daily.
So, in this context, a “non-comedogenic” label is probably safer for sensitive and acne-prone skin, but it won’t be a guarantee that you’ll get the results you want. Your skin can still react adversely.
The best advice we can give you is to take a look at the comedogenic index scale. Always look at the ingredients in the products you’re buying. Never forget to do a patch test before introducing a new product to your skin, and observe how your skin reacts after applying a certain product. Sooner than later, you’ll find something that works best on you.