What Does Noncomedogenic Mean? & Why Is It Important in Skincare?

Every day we see more and more brands using the label "non-comedogenic" on their products. Beauty bloggers and estheticians use the term all too frequently to describe ingredients and give advice. But what does this mean, and more importantly, how reliable is it? 

The comedogenicity of ingredients is a topic close to the heart of long-time acne sufferers. The comedogenic index scale has been developed to measure comedogenic ingredients, thus helping you find noncomedogenic products.

Unfortunately, the matter is complicated, and even with a scale, we can't swear by skincare products or even ingredients. But this doesn't mean comedogenicity is not important when finding the best skincare products for acne.

Let's start with the basics and give you a full overview of non-comedogenic ingredients in skincare. 

Defining Comedogenicity

The Basics - What Is a Comedo?

On its surface, our skin has tiny holes or small openings of hair follicles that release oil and sweat. In certain areas where they are more densely distributed, you can see them as tiny little dots. They play a vital role in the skin's functioning, which is why it's important they stay open. 

"Comedo," or "comedones" in the plural form, is the fancy term used to describe a clogged pore or hair follicle that can't function properly. Comedones are the mildest form of acne that develops when there's a pore blockage. We can divide comedones into three categories: 

• Blackheads are clogged pores that are opened. You can see the plug on the skin's surface.
• Whiteheads are clogged pores that are closed. The plug is trapped below the skin's surface. 
• Comedogenic acne is a term that refers to inflamed pimples and acne breakouts resulting from a complication of clogged pores.

But What Really Clogs the Pores? 

• Dead skin cells can clog your pores. For example, if you're not washing and cleansing your face regularly, dead skin cells might clog pores.
• Excess oil can clog pores. Another major contributor is any excess sebum your sebaceous glands produce. This makes oily skin prone to acne. 
• Dirt and other pollutants from the external environment can clog pores. It's important to keep your hands, hair, and mobile phone away from your face. This is the easiest way to bring dirt and bacteria and cause infection.
• Skincare and makeup products can clog your pores. Anything that touches the skin's surface can influence the functioning of the skin's pores, causing acne - which is also true for the skin care products we're using. That's why non-comedogenic ingredients and noncomedogenic products have become so important.  

Let's move on to "non-comedogenic" products and their popularity in the skin care world today.

What Is A “Non-comedogenic” Product?

Don't be put off by the fancy word "noncomedogenic." Non-comedogenic means the product is not likely to cause comedones (or pore blockages). This likelihood is determined by the concentration and combination of ingredients used in the noncomedogenic product. 

Noncomedogenic skincare products come in many varieties, including noncomedogenic moisturizers and noncomedogenic oils. A product is considered non comedogenic if it scores low on the scale.

When companies say their product is non-comedogenic, they simply mean it doesn't contain any comedogenic ingredients. But keep in mind that the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) doesn't regulate the use of the term.

Will this protect against acne and prevent breakouts?

No. It simply means it's less likely to clog pores, so it won't contribute to more acne. This is vital, especially if you have trouble finding an oil-free product or acne treatment that won't make you flare up.

Today, a new term is emerging: "Non-Acnegenic" Products.

Acne is a condition triggered by many factors. Having noncomedogenic ingredients is important, but non-acnegenic products are also free from oils, fragrances, or harsh ingredients that irritate you or your acne lesions, making the product more suitable for acne-prone skin.

With this in mind, "comedogenicity" is extremely hard to be determined for simple ingredients, let alone complicated product formulations.

So, how is it done? How do we know that an ingredient is non-comedogenic and won't contribute to blocking pores?

When it comes to ingredients, we can examine the ingredient's composition. With skin care products, we can rely on the comedogenicity tests the companies conduct. 

Comedogenicity and Fatty Acids

Simply put, fatty acids are the building blocks of the fat in our bodies and our food. The body breaks down fat from food into fatty acids, so it can absorb it in the blood. Our body needs fat for energy and cell growth. 

You can obtain fatty acids internally or topically to help the skin produce a natural oil barrier, which is important for keeping your face hydrated, plumper, and younger-looking.

Everything looks good, so where's the problem? 

The problem is that fatty acids make up the oil or sebum on our skin. Sebum is an oily substance that protects and keeps the skin hydrated - otherwise known as the skin's natural oils. Sebum comprises triglycerides (fatty acid chains), free fatty acids, wax esters, squalene, cholesterol esters, and cholesterol. 

Studies have investigated the comedogenic activity of sebum and free fatty acids. One study examined the relationship between acne vulgaris and free fatty acids. Results showed that free fatty acids are comedogenic when applied in massive amounts to the skin's surface. 

However, authors note that there's also evidence showing reduced fatty acid levels in acne conditions. This implies that not all fatty acids have the same effect on the skin. The contradictory results complicate the relationship between sebum, fatty acids, oil, and other moisturizing ingredients. 

However, to keep things simple, we know certain fatty acids can be irritating and cause comedogenic reactions.

Some studies have shown that acne patients have a deficit in linoleic acid. This has led to many theories that argue that ingredients high in linoleic acid and low in oleic acid are more beneficial and less comedogenic than ingredients high in oleic and low in linoleic acids.

The Comedogenicity of Oils and Butters

While we're on the subject of the ratio of certain fatty acids, we have to talk about the comedogenic potential of oils.

The Comedogenic Rating of Oils

Many studies over the years have attempted to rate the comedogenicity of the most frequently used skin care products, oils, and other ingredients. 

Since then, The American Journal of American Academy of Dermatology has published a list of ratings for various oils and waxes. The comedogenic index scale has been shared extensively over the internet, helping those with sensitive, oily, and even dry skin go for noncomedogenic options. 

The Comedogenic Index Scale

0 – Not likely to clog pores

1 – Low risk of clogging pores

2 – Moderately low (may clog pores for some but be fine for most)

3 – Moderate risk of clogging pores (depending on the skin type)

4 – Fairly high risk of clogging pores (fine for some, but clogging for most people)

5 – High risk of clogging pores 

Name	Comedogenic rating	Skin Type	Composition
Abyssinian Seed Oil	0	Most Skin Types	High in Erucic Acid and Moderate in Oleic Acid
Acai Berry Oil	2	Dry, Mature, Irritated	High in Oleic Acid and Moderate in Linoleic Acid
Almond Oil, Sweet	2	Dry, Sensitive, Acne-prone	High in Oleic Acid
Andiroba Seed Oil	2	Dry, Acne-Prone	High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Linoleic Acid
Apricot Kernel Oil	2	Combination, Dry	High in Oleic Acid
Argan Oil	0	Most Skin Types	High in Oleic Acid, Moderate In Linoleic Acid
Avocado Oil	3	Dry, Acne-Prone	High in Oleic Acid
Babassu Oil	1-2	Most Skin Types	High in Lauric, Myristic and Oleic Acid
Baobob Seed Oil	2	Most Skin Types	High in Oleic Acid, Moderate Linoleic
Black Currant Seed Oil	0-1	Dry, Sensitive	High in Linoleic Acid+GLA and ALA
Blackberry Seed Oil	0-1	Oily	High in Linoleic, Moderate Linolenic Acid
Black Cumin Seed Oil	2	Combination	High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate Oleic
Black Raspberry Seed Oil	1-2	Dry, Combination, Acne-Prone	High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate Linolenic
Blueberry Seed Oil	0-1	Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Acne-Prone	High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate Linolenic & Oleic
Borage Oil	2	Combination, Oily, Sensitive	High in Linoleic Acid and GLA
Brazil Nut Oil	2	Dry, Mature	High in Oleic Acid, Moderate Linoleic
Broccoli Seed Oil	1	Dry, Best for Night/Hair	High in Erucic Acid and Oleic Acid
Buriti Oil	2	Dry, Mature	High in Oleic Acid
Camellia Seed Oil	1	Most Skin Types	High in Oleic Acid
Carrot Seed Oil	3-4	Dry, Mature	High in Oleic Acid
Castor Oil	1	Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Acne-Prone	High in Ricinoleic Acid
Cherry Kernel Oil	2	Most Skin Types, especially Dry/Irritated	High in Oleic and Linoleic Acid
Chia Seed Oil	3	Best for Body Use	High in Linolenic
Cloudberry Seed Oil	1	Oily, Acne-Prone	High in Linoleic and Linolenic Acid
Cocoa Butter	4	Ideal for Body/Eye Area, not for Oily/Acne-Prone	High in Oleic and Stearic Acid
Coconut Butter	4	Very Dry, Best for Body Use	High in Oleic, Stearic and Palmitic Acid
Coconut Oil	4	Very Dry, Best for Body Use	High in Lauric Acid
Coconut Oil, Fractionated	2-3	Most Skin Types	High in Caprylic and Capric Acid
Cottonseed Oil	3	Best for Hair or Body	High in Linoleic Acid
Cranberry Seed Oil	2	Dry, Acne-Prone	High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic and Linolenic Acid
Cucumber Seed Oil	`1	Most Skin Types	High in Linoleic Acid
Date Seed Oil	3	Dry	High in Oleic Acid
Elderberry Seed Oil	1-2	Most Skin Types	High in Linoelic and Linolenic Acid
Emu Oil	1	Most Skin Types	High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Palmitic Acid
Evening Primrose Oil	2-3	Oily, Acne-Prone, Combination	High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in GLA
Flax Seed Oil (Linseed)	4	Very Dry, Best for Body Use	High in Alpha-Linolenic Acid
Guava Seed Oil	1-2	Most Skin Types	High in Linoleic Acid
Goji Berry Seed Oil	0-1	Oily	High in Linoleic Acid
Grapeseed Oil	1	Most Skin Types	High in Linoleic Acid
Hazelnut Oil	1	Most Skin Types, especially Sensitive, Acne-Prone	High in Oleic Acid
Hemp Seed Oil	0	Most Skin Types, including Oily/Acne-Prone	High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Linolenic Acid
Jojoba Oil	2	Most Skin Types, including Oily/Acne-Prone	High in Eicosenoic Acid
Karanja Oil	2	Dry, Hair Use	High in Oleic Acid
Kiwi Seed Oil	1	Dry, Flaky, Hair Use	High in Linolenic Acid
Kukui Nut Oil	2	Dry, Flaky, Hair Use	High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic and Linolenic Acid
Lanolin Oil	2	Very Dry	NA
Macadamia Nut Oil 2-3	2-3	Dry	High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Palmitoleic Acid
Mango Butter	2	Most Skin Types	High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Stearic Acid
Mango Seed Oil	2	Most Skin Types, particularly Dry	High in Oleic and Stearic Acid
Marula Oil	3-4	Very Dry, Sensitive	High in Oleic Acid
Meadowfoam Seed Oil	1	Oily, Acne-Prone, Sensitive	High in Eicosenoic Acid
Milk Thistle Seed Oil	1	Most Skin Types	High in Linoleic Acid
Mineral Oil	0	Most Skin Types	NA
Mink Oil	3	Dry	High in Oleic Acid
Moringa Oil	3-4	Dry, Combination	High in Oleic Acid
Mowrah Butter	NA	Most Skin Types, especially Dry/Damaged	High in Oleic and Palmitic Acid
Neem Oil	1-2	Dry, Acne-Prone	High in Oleic Acid
Olive Oil	2	Dry, Acne-Prone	High in Oleic Acid
Papaya Seed Oil	2-3	Dry, Acne-Prone, Sensitive	High in Oleic Acid
Palm Oil	4	Very Dry, Best for Body Use	High in Lauric Acid
Palm Oil, Red	4	Very Dry, Best for Body Use	High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Palmitic Acid
Passionfruit (Maracuja)Seed Oil	1-2	Oily, Irritated, Acne-Prone	High in Linoleic Acid
Peach Kernel Oil	2	Dry, Sensitive	High in Oleic Acid
Peanut Oil	2	Most Skin Types	High in Oleic and Palmitic Acid
Pecan Oil	2	Dry, Combination	High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Linoleic Acid
Perilla Oil	1-2	Most Skin Types, especially Dry	High in ALA
Pistachio Oil	NA	Most Skin Types, especially Dry/Damaged	High in Oleic and Palmitic Acid
Plum Kernel Oil	1-2	Most Skin Types, especially Mature	High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Linoleic Acid
Pomegranate Seed Oil	1	Most Skin Types, especially Mature	High in Punicic Acid
Prickly Pear Seed Oil	1-2	Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Combination	High in Linoleic Acid
Pumpkin Seed Oil	2	Most Skin Types	High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid
Red Raspberry Seed Oil	0-1	Most Skin Types	High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Linolenic Acid
Rice Bran Oil	2	Most Skin Types, especially Mature/ Combination	High in Oleic and Linoleic Acid
Rosehip Seed Oil	1	Oily, Acne-Prone	High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Linolenic Acid
Safflower Seed Oil	0	Most Skin Types	High in Linoleic Acid
Sal Seed Butter	NA	Dry	High in Stearic and Oleic Acid
Sea Buckthorn Oil	1	Most Skin Types, especially Mature/Dry	High in Palmitic, Palmitoleic and Oleic Acid
Sesame Seed Oil	3	Dry, Irritated	High in Linoleic and Oleic Acid
Shea Butter	0-2	Normal, Dry	High in Oleic and Stearic Acid
Shea Oil	0-2	Very Dry	High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Stearic Acid
Soybean Oil	4-5	Very Dry, Best for Body Use	High in Linoleic Acid
Squalane Oil	0-1	Most Skin Types	High in Omega-2
Strawberry Seed Oil	1	Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Acne-Prone	High in Linoleic and Linolenic Acid
Sunflower Seed Oil	0-2	Most Skin Types	High in Linoleic Acid
Tallow	2	Dry	High in Oleic Acid
Tamanu Oil	2	Most Skin Types, especially Scarred/Sensitive	High in Oleic and Linoleic Acid
Tomato Seed Oil	0-2	Most Skin Types	High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid
Walnut Seed Oil	1-2	Most Skin Types	High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid
Watermelon Seed Oil	0-1	Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Acne-Prone/Sensitive	High in Linoleic Acid
Wheat Germ Oil	5	Very Dry/Damaged, Spot Treatment	High in Linolenic Acid

Source: The American Journal of American Academy of Dermatology database and case reports.

Does the Comedogenic Scale Really Work?

The comedogenic scale was developed using knowledge from scientific research and testing on animals and human subjects. This means that the values truly represent the chances of comedogenic and noncomedogenic products clogging the pores in the general population.

But no one can give you any guarantees. After all, clogged pores are not the only factor contributing to acne development, and noncomedogenic products won't help with acne caused by hormonal changes.

The scale is designed to give you a better understanding of how an ingredient is expected to work. If you consider the scale as a flexible guide on what to avoid, what to try next, or why your skincare products are not working, you'll find it helpful.

Scientists are working hard on developing better ways to predict the bioactivity of ingredients. Maybe in the near future, we'll have better ways to find the most fitting formula for our ailments.

Comedogenic Ingredients Vs. Comedogenic Products

How do we know which skincare products are non-comedogenic? Is it a matter of simply multiplying the comedogenic ratings of the ingredients in the formula? 

No, nothing is that simple. Products labeled as non-comedogenic mean that the manufacturer didn't use any ingredients known to be comedogenic in the formula.

The Comedogenicity of Makeup and Skincare Products

Comedogenic ingredients don't necessarily create comedogenic products. For example, the product might contain coconut or olive oil and still be recommended for acne-prone skin. How is that possible?

It all comes down to the concentration and combination of the ingredients in the formula.

The Concentration and Combination of Ingredients in the Formula

When it comes to skincare products, there's always the possibility of combining the ingredients so that the comedogenic ingredients won't cause blocked pores. 

What do we really mean by this?

Let's go with the most widely used ingredient - coconut oil. It's everywhere. If you're using pure oil, you're dealing with a comedogenic rating of 4, which means it's very likely that the oil will clog your pores.

But, when it's used in a good moisturizer at only a 1-2% concentration, mixed with other beneficial ingredients, the outcome changes. The oil is diluted, and it's very likely that it won't be strong enough to block pores. But if you're still worried, opt for noncomedogenic products with oil-free formulas.

The X Factor

When it comes to comedogenicity, there's also the "X factor" - an individual's genetic predisposition, specific intolerance, and allergies that can influence your reaction to a certain product. 

The comedogenic rating of the ingredient or product determines the likelihood of comedones breaking out. But in the end, whether your face breaks out from using that product or ingredient is also determined by that individual "X factor." 

In other words, we're all different, and we might not fit the comedogenic scale as it's intended. 

So, our advice is to use it as a flexible guide rather than a rigid set of rules. Experiment, do patch tests before applying new products (preferably on the inner fold of the elbow), and you'll be on your way to finding the best product for you.

Comedogenic Tests For Makeup and Skincare Products

We went over the studies and scientific reviews that look into the composition of one ingredient to determine its comedogenic rating. But what about products formulated with many ingredients? Which ones are less likely to clog pores?

In this case, we mostly rely on the tests conducted by the companies themselves or third parties. Unfortunately, there's no standardized or regulated testing method by any governmental organization, so results can vary greatly from ingredient to ingredient and even from brand to brand.

If you're interested to learn more about cosmetic products and what specific ingredients to avoid, you should check out our two articles on the subject: "Does makeup cause acne?" and "Makeup ingredients to avoid." 

If you're looking for good products to help your acne, go for Misumi's Complete Clear 3-Step System.

Rabbit Ear Test

Originating from the 1970s, the rabbit ear test has long been the standard for testing new products before releasing them commercially. Because a rabbit's ears are extremely sensitive, ingredients are swabbed into the inside part of the ear, and the results are assessed after two weeks. 

Although similar and much more sensitive, the rabbit's ear is not the same as our face, which brings into question the reliability of the test.

Plus, animal testing is becoming less widely accepted - and for a good reason! It's animal cruelty.

Human Skin Tests

This test is usually performed on the backs of human volunteers. After 4-8 weeks, their back is analyzed so the testing team can reach a conclusion on the efficacy of the product.

The problem is that the skin on our back is thicker and less reactive than our face, which can produce inconsistencies with the results and real-life applications. Plus, studies on human volunteers are usually really small, and there's always the concern that most skin types are not well represented.

Final Thoughts

If you were looking for an easy answer, we're sorry to disappoint you. We know it can be a lot to take in, but we don't want to oversimplify something so complex.

So, in this context, noncomedogenic products, and oil-free products are probably safer for sensitive skin and acne-prone skin, but it doesn't guarantee you'll get the results you want. Your skin can still react adversely to non comedogenic ingredients. We recommend choosing noncomedogenic skin care products over products with comedogenic ingredients.

The best advice we can give you is to look at the ingredients on the product labels. Never forget to do a patch test before introducing a new product and observe how your skin reacts after. Speak to a board-certified dermatologist or a cosmetic chemist if you're unsure. Sooner than later, you'll find something that works for you.

References

Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology

Comedogenicity of current therapeutic products, cosmetics, and ingredients in the rabbit ear

Essential fatty acids and acne

Acne Vulgaris and Free Fatty Acids