Salicylic acid. The name might give you chills, but don’t let it fool you. This “acid” is one of the most common ingredients found in quality cleansers and other anti-acne and skin care products.
This use of salicylic acid in skincare products has given it a long, well-documented history of use - especially when getting rid of acne. This means we're pretty well informed about the positive and negative effects of salicylic acid on the skin.
So, if you wanted to know everything about this wonderful ally in the quest for getting clear, healthy, and younger-looking skin, you’ve come to the right place.
What is Salicylic Acid?
The real name of this precious ingredient is a beta-hydroxy acid (or BHA for short). Vegans should sleep easy because BHA is derived entirely from plants. A plant-based hormone, its specific molecular structure (separated by two atoms of carbon) is what gets the job done. The molecule (C7H6O3) is shaped just the right way to cause oil solubility, enabling it to unclog pores.
Salicylic acid is mainly derived from the bark of the willow tree (incidentally, the same material that enables us to extract aspirin). However, that’s not the only source of BHA. Other sources of salicylic acid include vegetables such as olives, tomatoes, green peppers, mushrooms, radishes, chicory, and so on.
When it comes to skin care products and other related treatments, salicylic acid is usually used in its liquid form. Most commonly, salicylic acid is used to treat:
- Comedones
- Clogged Pores
- Blackheads
- Whiteheads
- Acne
- Cysts
Can I Buy Salicylic Acid Over the Counter?
The short answer is that, yes, you can. But the long answer is a bit more complicated. You can buy skincare products that contain salicylic acid, but getting your hands on pure, 100% concentrated BHA is pretty hard.
Even products that boast they contain pure, undiluted salicylic acid will state that their concentration is around 99%.
Most products sold over the counter contain between 2% and 5% of BHA, which is just enough for what you need - taking care of your skin.
If you want a batch of highly concentrated, pure acid, you can have that too. However, you will have to be super careful about it, because you will have to dilute it yourself.
So What Does it Actually Do?
If you open up the encyclopedia entry on salicylic acid, you will see the following three attributes next to it: lipolytic, keratolytic, and comedolytic.
Lipolytic
Lipolytic means that this acid is good for dissolving oils and fats. That’s one of the properties that make this compound useful in skin care treatments. This ability is especially suited for people with oil-prone skin, who tend to have a higher rate of clogged pores.
It's widely used in anti-acne products since it helps to rid the skin of dirt.
Keratolytic
Keratolytic refers to the ability of a given substance to dissolve dead skin cells, which usually form calluses, warts, and other anomalies of the surface layer of the skin.
The surface layer of the skin is called epidermis. Because salicylic acid is keratolytic, it helps deconstruct dead cells found on the epidermis. These are especially present during, or after, an acne inflammation.
Topical salicylic acid will make short work of all the dead skin cells, speeding up the natural exfoliation process.
Comedolytic
Comedolytic denotes the ability of a substance (product, or medication) that prevents the formation of comedones.
Comedones are skin pores clogged with dirt and oil. By dissolving the oil and dead cells found all over your skin, salicylic acid prevents the formation of comedones.
This is why salicylic acid is so widely used in skin care products - it offers an all-around solution to various skin-related problems. It should be noted that for BHA to be fully functional and exude the properties described above, it has to possess a pH level of 4 or above.
Higher pH levels severely degrade this acid’s ability to exfoliate and clean the skin. Always check a product’s label for its pH value before buying. If it’s above 4, the acid in the product will be useless, and your money will be better spent elsewhere.
Salicylic Acid Effects on the Skin
Thanks to the combined powers of the lipolytic, keratolytic, and comedolytic properties, this substance makes for one powerful cleanser and exfoliator for your skin. Salicylic acid penetrates the skin to unblock pores and hair follicles. It also aids in fighting acne.
In fact, salicylic acid is a key ingredient in many acne products, and for good reasons. This targeted treatment can produce the following effects:
Exfoliation
Salicylic acid acts as an exfoliator by softening, and even dissolving keratin, a protein that acts as a building block in the skin’s structure. While other compounds can be exfoliating as well, it's difficult to clean the skin if keratin remains unaffected.
But by softening up keratin, this chemical exfoliant is much more effective. This also helps reduce signs of aging, such as wrinkles and discoloration, since restoring the epidermis makes the skin produce more collagen to regenerate itself.
Salicylic Acid Prevents Comedones
As we mentioned above, when a skin pore or a hair follicle becomes clogged by dirt, skin cells, or sebum (skin oil), it becomes bulgy and discolored. This is called a comedone. There are very good reasons why salicylic acid is one of the best ways to get rid of comedones, thus reducing acne.
But if neglected, comedones can also become the main reason for acne inflammation. A comedone can remain covered by the epidermis, which makes it closed (forming a whitehead), or become clogged so much that the clogging material is in open contact with the air ( a blackhead).
Either of these can lead to acne or a large pimple. If complications arise, such as bacterial inflammation or hormonal changes, blackheads and whiteheads can transform into cysts, which are the most severe type of acne.
This is why it’s important to use SA products in your skincare routine. The BHA enters the pores, and dissolves all the excess sebum and dead skin cells, amounting to an all-around, anti-acne spring cleaning. It's anti-inflammatory properties will make you feel better in no time.
Salicylic Acid Removes Oil But Can Dry Your Skin Too
Whether you're using a gel, lotion, oil, or cleanser, apply too much, and watch your skin become dry, flaky, reddish, and sore. Due to its lipolytic and keratolytic properties, this acid must be used in moderation, lest it saps all the oil from your skin, making it lose its moisture and natural elasticity.
To counter this, make sure you have a quality moisturizer handy.
Salicylic Acid Can Reduce Inflammation
Being a cousin of medicines such as aspirin, you can probably see the connection. But instead of playing the crazy scientist and experimenting with prescription medicines on your face, why not go for something more appropriate? SA has many of the same anti-inflammatory properties as aspirin, but aspirin isn’t meant for topical use - while BHA is.
Salicylic acid doesn’t just dissolve sebum and excess oil, or remove dead cells - it can also reduce inflammation, making for a more balanced, pleasant skin tone. And not to mention the reduced pain and discomfort - that’s a feeling you don’t wanna miss.
How to Use Salicylic Acid
There are several ways to use salicylic acid for treating acne and blemishes. It comes in various products, including gels, creams, many cleansers, toners, moisturizers, sunscreens, and even salicylic body washes. Try Misumi's Clear Skin Salicylic Cleanser! It contains a range of acne-fighting ingredients.
If you have reservations about using this substance or experience any adverse effects, visit your doctor or dermatologist immediately.
Salicylic Acid as Spot Treatment
Most products that contain salicylic acid are spot treatments, or so-called topical treatments. Being widely available, these salicylic acid products can be bought OTC.
Spot treatments are especially suitable for treating areas of your face, neck, cheeks, nose, chin, hairline, and so on. They're intended for areas where subtlety and precision are needed.
As the name will tell you, these treatments are meant for application on the affected “spot” only. Like on this teddy bear here. X marks the spot for the salicylic acid spot treatment!
So if you’re treating a pimple, several pimples, or an area affected by acne, try to apply the salicylic acid product as precisely as possible to the phenomenon in question. When applied properly, it will reduce the color, size, and inflammation in the affected area.
Generally, spot treatments contain a higher concentration of a given ingredient, meaning you should use them with care. Putting too much of the product on a spot can have adverse effects. Don’t smear or pour spot treatments on an area of healthy skin, since it can cause redness, dryness, and even pain. Always follow the instructions, and remember - they're not called spot treatments for nothing.
Salicylic Acid As Exfoliator
Salicylic acid can be bought over the counter, which applies to products that employ it as an exfoliant. Depending on your needs and the product in question, exfoliators that contain salicylic acid can be used either every day or once a week.
You probably know this by now, but before you apply any exfoliators on your skin, you need to wash it and leave it somewhat moist. While many exfoliating products contain tiny grains that require you to massage your face, this is not the case with BHA.
Salicylic acid can be bought over the counter, which applies to products that employ it as an exfoliant. Depending on your needs and the product in question, exfoliators that contain salicylic acid can be used either every day or once a week.
You probably know this by now, but before you apply any exfoliators on your skin, you need to wash it and leave it somewhat moist. While many exfoliating products contain tiny grains that require you to massage your face, this is not the case with BHA.
Salicylic acid works best when you apply it to the desired skin area and wait around 30 seconds. This will allow the salicylic acid to use its lipolytic and keratolytic properties, and get inside the pores and surface level of the skin.
After it's absorbed, wash your face with mild water. After applying salicylic acid in this way, your skin should become brighter and smoother. Additional uses will keep pores clean and help you get younger looking skin.
Salicylic Acid as Face Wash
Besides using BHA as a spot treatment, or exfoliator, you can also use it preventively. This means salicylic acid face wash will cover the entire face. However, since this acid can be irritating, dilute it before applying a thin layer to your face. You can do so at home, or grab one of the many salicylic acid cleansers on the market.
Most of these products use formulas of low intensity, meaning that washing your face with salicylic acid won’t dry your skin or lead to other adverse effects. Take care not to rub your face, as this might harm your skin. If you need to dry it, dab your skin gently. Rubbing or pressing your skin can cause discoloration, blemishes, and even damage.
Salicylic Acid For Peeling
Chemical peels are some of the most effective products there, but due to the abrasive nature of the compound, they should not be used too often. Most peeling products employing salicylic acid as their main ingredient boast fairly high concentrations of the acid - around 30%. If you decide to try out a salicylic acid peel, you should stick to the instructions.
A good way to check for this with topical application is to perform a patch test. (Otherwise known as a spot test). Just pour some of the product containing salicylic acid on an empty skin patch and see how your skin reacts. If there are no adverse effects, such as redness, or pain, you’re good to go. But if you react, be sure to dilute it before applying.
If you’re not seeing results, don’t worry. Our bodies are what they are, meaning live, adaptable organisms, they can increase their tolerance with time. With repeated uses, your skin should adapt to slightly higher doses of salicylic acid peels, but you should always start small. Use low doses first, then gradually increase the concentrations until you see improvement. If used properly, peels based on salicylic acid can clean clogged pores and smoothen out swollen pimples.
Is Salicylic Acid Safe to Use For All Skin Types?
Your skin type plays a major role in how a certain treatment or medication interacts with you.
Some types are better suited to exploit the benefits of salicylic acid and encourage its amazing properties. But others make it more difficult, calling for more caution when using this ingredient. There are five skin types: normal skin, oily skin, dry skin, combination skin, and sensitive skin.
Read on to learn how each skin type interacts with salicylic acid and the products that contain it.
Salicylic Acid and Normal Skin
Pop a bottle of champagne, because you’ve won the skin lottery!
Normal skin means that your skin is neither too dry nor too oily and is not prone to rashes or acne breakouts. If this is the case with you, then salicylic acid is generally considered safe - but of course, use everything in moderation.
Using excessive amounts, or applying salicylic acid too often may still create irritations or imbalances even for normal skin. So, ensure that you follow the instructions and always use these products sensibly.
Salicylic Acid and Oily Skin
This skin type is more prone to developing acne breakouts. The excess oil and sebum that oily skin produces is free food for all the acne-causing bacteria. However, this can be a blessing in disguise, since, with oily skin, salicylic acid can be put to the maximum effect.
Oily skin goes through faster cycles of creating new skin cells and gluing them together, and salicylic acid can counter this.
This type of skin is also very good at producing comedones, which then become blackheads and whiteheads. Salicylic acid disrupts this process by dissolving the sebum (skin oil) that clogs up the pores, thus breaking the chain of acne formation.
Additionally, by removing all the dead skin cells, salicylic acid helps shrink enlarged pores, often clogged by debris.
If you have oily skin and want to learn more about it, check out our tips for people with oily skin.
Salicylic Acid and Dry Skin
While salicylic acid is beneficial for all types of skin, people with dry skin should be cautious.
This is because dry skin, as the name might suggest, has a moisture deficiency. But what is moisture, exactly, when we refer to the skin?
What we experience as moisture or moist skin is the presence of lipid molecules that, in turn, retain water molecules. And lipids are fats and oils. So when salicylic acid comes into contact with dry skin, which is already deficient in these lipid molecules, it removes the rest.
Understandably this runs the risk of making your skin too dry, rough, itchy, patchy, and so on. That’s why people with dry skin should use salicylic acid very carefully, or choose products with lower concentrations. This will help dry skin maintain its oil balance. But if that doesn’t help, applying some moisturizer will make a difference.
Salicylic Acid and Combination Skin
While the name may make it sound complicated, in reality, combination skin is a mixture of oily and dry skin in different areas. One can even have areas of sensitive skin and normal skin.
So, a person can have sensitive skin on their chin but have an oily forehead and dry cheeks. Or, they could have dry cheeks and forehead, an oily nose area, and so on. It depends on your subjective genetics and personal makeup.
So what should you do, if you’re a person with combination skin? Well, in this case, knowledge is power. You should begin by studying your face and decide which areas fall under which skin type. Then, apply salicylic acid products depending on the skin type of the affected area you are treating.
For example, if your nose is oily, then use more product there. But if your cheeks are dry, use less salicylic acid, and so on. Start small and see how your body will react to the product. If things go bad or you’re seeing extreme reactions, call your doctor or dermatologist.
Salicylic Acid and Sensitive Skin
If having normal skin is like winning the lottery, then having skin sensitivity is the opposite.
Most of the time, people with this type of skin have trouble discovering what their skin is reacting to. You apply some hand cream, and half your hand looks like boiled chicken. You wash your hands, and the reaction subsides, but that hand cream had like 20 ingredients. Which one has caused the reaction? You’ll have to do some detective work and research until you get your answer.
But take heart, my friends. Just because your skin is sensitive, it doesn’t mean you’ll have problems with salicylic acid. Caution is advised, however - never apply skin care products carelessly if your skin is sensitive. You should always try it out first.
Put a small amount of the product on your skin, and see if there are any reactions. It pays to wait for a while since some ingredients need a little time to make our skin angry.
If you see no reactions, then go ahead and apply some more of the product. Chances are that it is safe for you to use.
People with skin sensitivity are at a greater risk of side effects, irritation, inflammation, and other allergic reactions to skin care products. So chat with your doctor or dermatologist to determine which products you can and cannot use. This will help you avoid an allergic reaction.
Medical Applications of Salicylic Acid
But wait, some people don’t fall under the five types of skin but have skin conditions instead. In some cases, doctors recommend using salicylic acid as a treatment for dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema, keratosis pilaris, seborrheic dermatitis, and so on. These skin issues are responsive to the powerful keratolytic, lipolytic, and comedolytic properties of salicylic acid.
The specific benefit when it comes to treating skin problems is the keratolytic property of salicylic acid. Remember, if an ingredient is keratolytic, it helps normalize the natural process of shedding dead skin cells.
The skin conditions mentioned above involve a disruption of the normal keratinization process, making for unsightly, scaly plaques on the skin. That is where salicylic acid enters the picture - it assists the body in breaking down those skin formations and normalizing the skin-shedding process.
Side Effects of Salicylic Acid
So far, so good. But besides the occasional dryness, are there any other potential side effects that can occur after using salicylic acid? The short answer is, yes. Even though it is considered very safe, salicylic acid has several possible side effects.
These include dryness, peeling, photosensitivity, and irritation. Everyone’s skin is different, though.
Salicylic Acid Can Cause Peeling
While fairly expected at first, prolonged and excessive peeling shouldn’t be considered normal. As we mentioned above, this acid can be used for peeling, which is its intended effect in certain scenarios.
However, if you’re using salicylic acid as a wash or a spot treatment, but your skin won't stop peeling off and flaking, you’re experiencing a side effect. If your skin starts peeling off more than usual, or longer, wash your face immediately and stop using the product.
Salicylic Acid Can Cause Photosensitivity
No, this doesn’t mean that you will suddenly become sensitive to taking selfies, or other kinds of photographs. It doesn’t mean that your skin will become burned by camera flashes either. In ancient Latin, “photo” referred to light - be it from the sun or other sources.
In the modern world, being photosensitive or experiencing photosensitivity simply means being sensitive to the sun. Photosensitivity is correlated with photoaging, i.e., accruing signs of aging due to prolonged exposure to sunlight.
This, in the context of skincare, means that your skin can react to light after applying topical salicylic acid. There is simply no way around this. All BHAs, which include salicylic acid, increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight.
And while most people won’t notice much of a change, some may experience intense photosensitivity. This usually manifests as being more easily sunburned during the summer, or every time you encounter UV light.
So, if you’re using salicylic acid, you have two options to prevent your skin from becoming photosensitive. You should either apply more sunscreen every time you use a salicylic acid product or alternatively, avoid the sun, UV lamps, and tanning beds.
Salicylic Acid Can Cause Irritation
What do you think of when you think of an acid? Something that burns and causes pain, right? You’re not wrong. All acids have caustic properties, and with it, the potential to cause damage and irritation to live tissues. The same applies to salicylic acid, of course.
But don't make the mistake of equating salicylic acid to other, much more caustic acids out there. SA sits pretty low on the acidic harmfulness ladder, but that doesn’t mean it can’t cause redness or irritation if you apply too much.
Salicylic Acid and Pregnancy
This BHA is found in a variety of products. The great usefulness of salicylic acid makes it necessary to treat acne, skin inflammations, and other skin disorders.
This means that BHA is practically everywhere, and you probably have salicylic acid at home. Topical use hasn’t been researched, but the case is different for oral use. Talking to PopSugar, Dr. Mark Gray, a Harvard-trained pathologist, dermatologist, and the founder of Ao Skincare, strongly advised against it when pregnant:
“Oral salicylic acid is a definite no," Dr. Gray said, "It's part of the aspirin family, and it can cause bleeding and complications."
You can’t get any more straightforward than that. But let’s be honest - most people don’t use oral supplements of BHA. We do, however, smear it liberally over our skin. About that one, another expert, Dr. David Lortscher, the founder and CEO of Curology, said the following to PopSugar:
"The FDA has rated salicylic acid as Pregnancy Category C, which means that its risk cannot be ruled out.” Dr. Lortscher continued. "Low concentrations and small amounts of salicylic acid found in skincare — no more than 2 percent for toners and washes — are generally considered safe. However, there is a concern when salicylic acid is used in higher concentrations, such as in peels or over large areas of the body. To take the most cautious approach, avoid salicylic acid throughout your pregnancy."
So, while salicylic acid is fairly safe, frequent topical use can lead to ingestion of small doses. The acid also shows minimal absorption through the skin, so occasional application of small doses is considered fairly safe. But why experiment on yourself and your unborn child? Better be safe than sorry, so if you’re pregnant, the wisest choice is to avoid using salicylic acid products entirely.
Salicylic Acid and its Interactions With Other Substances
In short, can you mix it with other stuff?
Well, we suspect that you won’t like the answer.
Drinking alcohol while using salicylic acid, or using products that contain it, can lead to some unusual side effects. The more medicines you combine, the more unpredictable the effects can become. For example, the Mayo Clinic urges people not to take Ketorolac and salicylic acid together, because it can lead to severe skin dehydration. Your best bet is to talk to your doctor and dermatologist about this.
Salicylic Acid Is Not For Everyone
Everyone’s skin is different, and SA will interact with each person’s skin type slightly differently. Aspirin, which is acetylsalicylic acid, can stimulate circulation, for example. The same goes for salicylic acid as well, with the difference being that BHA can “circulate” oil out of the epidermis and the skin pores.
But not every skin type will allow for the same amount of this salicylic acid-induced circulation. Besides the conventional types that we mentioned above, medical professionals use a different classification. It’s called the Fitzpatrick Scale of Skin Types, and salicylic acid interacts less than perfectly with some types on the scale.
Dermatologists urge caution when using SA for people with the following Fitzpatrick Scale:
- Fitzpatrick Scale Skin Type IV - Commonly discerned as beige to brown skin, typical of people of Hispanic descent. People with Skin Type IV on the Fitzpatrick scale get tans very gradually and gets mild sunburns, if ever.
- Fitzpatrick Scale Skin Type V - This skin type is darker than Type IV. This means that people with Skin Type V on the Fitzpatrick Scale get tans easily, and gets sunburns almost never.
- Fitzpatrick Scale Skin Type VI - As you might have noticed, the higher the number, the darker the skin. Skin Type VI on the Fitzpatrick Scale is almost black, and never gets sunburns. It tans super easily as well.
But why is this a problem when it comes to salicylic acid? Well, you probably know that darker skin contains more pigment called melanin. Melanin is your skin’s way of limiting inflammation. It is an antioxidant as well, so it performs several functions.
Salicylic Acid Can Lead to the Formation of Dark Spots
Due to its acidic nature, salicylic acid induces mild skin inflammation, which can provoke your skin to produce more melanin. This is especially problematic for people who fall under types IV, V, and VI and have acne.
Naturally, you might want to apply skin care products that contain salicylic acid to treat acne. But, since in this case, salicylic acid is applied over the acne itself, this can increase the production of melanin in exactly those areas. This often results in replacing acne with dark spots.
This is pretty difficult to reverse and remove. But it's not just the case with salicylic acid; every other treatment that can cause the skin to inflame will produce the same effects. And yes, the same applies to even skin-lightening agents.
Ironic, right? Well, that’s the reality for us. The key takeaway here is that if you have beige, brown, or black skin, you should be more careful than usual when using products that contain salicylic acid. Or, at the very least, you should consult your doctor and dermatologist beforehand. I’ll make a bold assumption and guess that you don’t want to end up with dark spots where your acne once was. So, again: better safe than sorry.
Summary
Salicylic acid is rightfully one of the best, most effective, and generally safest substances when it comes to skin care and treating acne. That is because salicylic acid possesses powerful keratolytic, lipolytic, and comedolytic properties. In other words, BHA dissolves skin oil, preventing the clogging of pores.
Paired with its keratolytic property of dissolving dead skin cells, salicylic acid works by opening up and cleaning pores, preventing future breakouts.
These properties make a powerful combination for the prevention and treatment of acne. In short, salicylic acid removes the conditions that set acne inflammation in motion. No excess skin oil and piled up dead skin cells - no acne.
As we attempted to explain throughout this guide, salicylic acid has several beneficial applications in treating acne and general skin care. From being used as a cleanser to a powerful exfoliator, anti-acne treatment, and face and body wash, you'll find salicylic acid in tons of skin care products. And yes, you can buy salicylic acid over the counter, both in its undiluted and diluted forms.
However, not everything is rosy in BHA land. While people with normal and oily skin will see the most benefits from using salicylic acid, people with dry, dark, or skin sensitivity can experience some side effects. These range from irritation to extreme dryness and even, in the case of people with darker skin who have acne, permanent discoloration.
It's also recommended that you avoid using SA products during pregnancy. While topical use of salicylic acid shouldn’t be a problem, its ingestion can cause a series of pregnancy complications and birth defects.
So, better safe than sorry!
But all of these side effects can be countered very easily. First, even if you are sure you have oily or normal skin, you should always conduct a patch test before proceeding to use a product. Apply a small amount of the salicylic acid product on your skin, and wait and see if there are any adverse reactions.
However, not everything is rosy in BHA land. While people with normal and oily skin will see the most benefits from using salicylic acid, people with dry, dark, or skin sensitivity can experience some side effects. These range from irritation to extreme dryness and even, in the case of people with darker skin who have acne, permanent discoloration.
It's also recommended that you avoid using SA products during pregnancy. While topical use of salicylic acid shouldn’t be a problem, its ingestion can cause a series of pregnancy complications and birth defects.
So, better safe than sorry!
But all of these side effects can be countered very easily. First, even if you are sure you have oily or normal skin, you should always conduct a patch test before proceeding to use a product. Apply a small amount of the salicylic acid product on your skin, and wait and see if there are any adverse reactions.
If your skin reacts aggressively to a product containing salicylic acid, you should try using another skin care substance, or try out products with lower concentrations of salicylic acid. Remember, if a product has a pH value of 4 and above, the effects of BHA are practically negated. So, if you want to put salicylic acid to good use, you should always go for products with lower pH values.
Finally, regardless of how safe and ubiquitous salicylic acid is, seeking the opinion of a medical professional can only help. Each of us is different; everybody has a slightly different skin type and sometimes vastly different personal medical histories. For this reason, you should always consult with your doctor and dermatologist before using a new skin care product.
References
Salicylic Acid (Topical Route)
Safety of skin care products during pregnancy
This information is meant to supplement, not replace advice from your doctor or healthcare provider and is not meant to cover all possible uses, precautions, interactions or adverse effects. This information may not fit your specific health circumstances, and its goal is to offer a general view of the subject. In case you are suffering from a severe case of acne, you should consult with a dermatologist or a certified medical professional.
